The tour of New Jersey wineries by global notables continued last week with Jean-Philippe Roby, professor of viticulture and oenology at the Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences in Bordeaux, France, as well as with the National Agricultural Projects Engineering School, also in Bordeaux.

Jean-Philippe Roby

His chaperone, Karl Storchmann, from the American Association of Wine Economists, was aiming for South Jersey, where Bordeaux varieties really rock, but Karl admires our wines and knew we grew Cabernet Franc, so he led Jean-Philippe here first.

Our relationship with Cab Franc oscillates from rapture to indifference.  A bottle I bought in 1986 from Tewksbury Wine Cellars revealed to me the potential for winemaking in Hunterdon.  It was good, really good.  Given that, we planted a half-acre of Cab Franc – just in case those exotic Austrians failed – and it’s done exactly what we expected:  consistent, good, and potentially very good red wine.

But once the Austrian bet began paying off, Cab Franc became an afterthought.  Indeed, I decided to rip out the entire half-acre and replant something Austrian.  But subscribers then snapped up the 2010 vintage in a flash, even after we raised the price a couple times.  I was stunned. The vines were granted a stay of execution.

Fast forward to last Friday.

Jean-Philippe tasted our three 2012 Cab Francs from the barrel, and was really pleased with how they each reflect the different vineyards where they were grown.  But it was the bottle of estate 2010 that did him in.  Apparently all you subscribers were right.

He sniffed, swirled and tasted, then repeated the ritual before saying, in French-accented English, “This wine is, elegant.  This, is world-class”.

It is also, regrettably, sold out.  I wish I had another couple of cases, just for myself.

Before leaving, he stopped to barrel taste our 2012 Austrian reds.  He agreed that Zweigelt is the Merlot of Austria, a perfect harmonizer, but was most impressed by the Blaufränkisch:  “This is truly your wine here.”   Thank you, Jean-Philippe.